Marshall Lake Loop
NW Ontario
July 14-22, 2024
Note: Since completing this Trip report, my friend Rob tells me that, to his knowledge, there have been 5 paddlers or groups of paddlers on this route this summer and only 3 of them have done the whole loop... If one is looking for solitude, this is certainly not a heavily traveled route.
I’ve heard it said that life is about 10% what happens to us and about 90% how we react to those events and, I suppose that I (mostly) agree with this assessment. Like many, my primary issue is that the decisions we make daily often seem questionable in hindsight and this year’s canoe trip to NW Ontario was rife with those questionable decisions.
We’ll start with timing: Last year, I’d delayed my trip North until mid-September and found the Steel River to have little water in it so I determined to go earlier in the year this time and head North in mid-July as my understanding is that the black flies are usually about done by that time and there would still be plenty of water to keep rivers & rapids passable.
I hadn’t counted on a particularly wet Spring & early Summer in that area and when Rob Haslam (who provided excellent maps for this trip as well as the Steel River trip last year), told me that the bugs were the worst he’d ever seen them, I probably should have rescheduled my vacation time for mid-August instead.
Now, to be clear, I’ve always found that flying bugs typically don’t like me (ticks do but they haven’t made their way up that far yet) and neither mosquitoes nor black flies have shown much interest in me as a food source in the past so I wasn’t terribly worried about bugs when I packed up the trusty, rusty Ranger and set out early Sunday morning.
I didn’t pay any more attention to the speed limits than I usually do but I wasn’t traveling on a holiday weekend either and I did not meet any police officers as PA, Ohio and Michigan faded into the rear view. (as always avoiding the PA turnpike… total waste of money IMO)
I was starting to see more wildlife than last trip as I saw some weird-looking birds (I think they were Sandhill Cranes) grazing the median strip in the Upper Peninsula, an otter just North of Sault Ste Marie and a red fox just before dark.
I had to laugh a little at the border guard when he asked me why I was coming to Canada and then asked “You came all the way from Pennsylvania to go fishing & canoeing in Ontario?” like it was something unusual… Hadn’t he seen all the commercials?
I had to assume he wasn’t an outdoorsman but he allowed me to pass, I again switched to my 25+ year old Garmin GPS (because, although the maps are outdated, it has maps for all of North America and not just the US) and I made my way to the Trans Canadian Highway.
I stopped for supper on the outskirts of Sault Ste Marie at a roadside food trailer that advertised “the best fish & chips in town” and was momentarily taken aback by the choices of fish that they offered. I was prepared for the normal Haddock and Cod but Pickerel?!…
I was about ½ way through the thought of “who in their right minds would eat those tiny, bony things” when I remembered that names vary regionally and, in Canada, Aspens are Poplars and Pickerel are Walleye. (and portages are still a PIA regardless of how one pronounces them)
That remedied, I got a basket of pickerel & fries (very good BTW) to go and munched away as I cruised along the Eastern shore of Lake Superior until I reached Batchawana Bay and the Chicken Shack Motel.
The owner, Colleen Fisher, had been helpful on last year’s trip so I had made arrangements to stay the night on this trip. I think she’d about given up on me as it was nearly 10pm when I arrived and she said that she’d left room #1 open with the key & the wifi password inside on the table.
We did a little paperwork & I settled in for the night having driven 728 miles in 13 ½ hours. I sent out the “all OK” message on the inReach around 10:30pm and then, on a whim, I opened the Earthmate app on my phone (it ties the phone to the inReach for texting & easier map viewing).
Earlier in the week, I had checked the operation of the inReach itself but not the app and for some reason, the app wouldn’t open so I uninstalled & reinstalled it, checked to be sure I could open it and went to bed.
I slept well, woke early and was on the road again by 7:30am backtracking a little to pick up coffee, fuel and an apple fritter at Voyageur’s General Store because, like last trip, a quick calculation had me running out of fuel about 15 miles before the next gas station. Besides, the coffee there was good last year and the fritter was excellent. (20 minutes round trip for all of that? Absolutely!)
Rob had told me that the pulp mill in Terrace Bay had shut down and the gravel road that I’d taken to Longlac last year was, therefore, not being maintained so I turned right onto 631 at White River and stayed on it through Hornepayne until I hit Rte 11. This route also took me through Nagagamisis Provincial Park which, with an earlier departure on day 1, would be a very viable camping option for a future visit.
Route 11 seems to run in pretty much a straight line and the terrain was unbelievably level so I made great time and arrived at Rob’s house around 2:30 where I met his wife, Irene, and Rob cautioned that the bugs might not be as picky there as what I was used to at home since I would, likely, be the only thing on the menu.
I knew that he’d used up all the boards that I’d brought him last year by making paddles so I had brought him some lumber with which to replenish his wood supply. We unloaded some Cherry, Sassafras & a Catalpa board as we compared paddles and enjoyed a couple of beers. I also borrowed a rain jacket as I’d forgotten mine.
In addition, Irene graciously saved me a stop at the drugstore by providing a toothbrush & toothpaste which I couldn’t find that morning at the hotel (I later found them in my pack but still...)
With his warning of bugs in mind, I stopped at the hardware store in Geraldton to see if they had bear bangers (they didn’t) and pick up an aerosol can of bug spray. I was back on my way around 4:30 but I didn’t get too far out of town before I realized I’d made another questionable decision.
Before leaving home, I’d shared the link to my inReach publicly on canoetripping.net and on Instagram so that anyone interested might follow along.
A few miles outside of Geraldton, I felt the need to make a pit stop to rid myself of the coffee and beers. Nothing unusual about that except that, a couple of years ago I had sustained an impact that loosened a couple of front teeth for me. The dentist suggested removing them and made me a temporary prosthetic while I saved cash for the implants (to give an idea of how much I hate debt, I made my last car payment in 1988 and I’ve paid cash for everything except real estate ever since).
The prosthetic is uncomfortable, however, so I take it out when I'm not talking to someone.
In this case, after leaving the hardware store, I’d taken it out, set it on my lap and forgotten about it when I stepped out of the Ranger to answer nature’s call. I realized my error about 10 minutes down the road, turned around and looked all over the area where I’d stopped but the gravel in the road was various shades of white, beige and pink so I was unable to find it and I resigned myself to having to deal with getting a replacement when I returned home.
What made the decision to share questionable, in my mind, was that anyone with the link would be wondering why I’d backtracked and I would thus have to offer up the above explanation or make up something (note: I’m unsure how embarrassing the truth would need to be that it would cause me to lie but this, obviously, did not make the cut).
Soon after that I lost cell service as I turned off of 584 and onto 643. I followed it through the First Nations community of Aroland and shortly after that the road turned into a washboarded, 4 lane wide, gravel logging road such as I remembered from my Steel River trip.
Another similarity to that trip was that I didn’t really pay strict attention to Rob’s instructions as I knew that the Earthmate app showed lake names so I could see when I was getting close to Marshall.
Only problem was that I’d uninstalled & reinstalled the app at the hotel and I’d neglected to download the Canadian maps. The app would be helpful in texting but it would be useless for navigation on this trip.
Nonetheless, I forged on and soon decided to turn left onto a one-lane road because I thought he’d mentioned something about Andomoozwe Outfitters (I probably imagined it). The lane quickly narrowed to just wide enough for the truck and I was sure that I was off the trail again (I seem to have that tendency early in trips… maybe I should get that checked…). Problem was that there was no place to turn around & I really didn’t want to back the whole way to the road.
I messaged Rob to check my location while I found a turn-around & headed back to the main road and he confirmed that I was, indeed, off in the woods again and needed to go another 15 miles down the logging road where I should see the parking area on the left.
I finally arrived at the parking area around 8pm and walked the portage trail to check it out... WOW!
(and I mean WOW!!) 😲
The trail was almost level, was wide enough to drive a truck on and was SO much nicer than any of the portages on the Steel River had been.
I got my first look at Marshall lake peering into a stiff headwind but it was raining a little anyway so I decided to sleep in the truck instead of packing wet gear in the morning.
The bugs were pretty ferocious and the black flies there didn’t seem to be as picky as those I’d met in Minnesota.
Still… a few bites here & there was a small price to pay for 2 weeks of smooth, nearly level portages and I turned in nearly giddy with the anticipation of paddling Marshall lake in the stillness of early morning.
Day 1
I slept decently and, upon awakening, I regretted not having taken the water filter on the scouting trip the night before. With no water in the parking lot, breakfast (and worse, coffee) would have to wait until I reached the lake. No big deal, I thought, as the mosquitoes & black flies seemed thicker at the parking lot than they were at the launch anyway and they were getting pretty voracious at the parking lot already.
I double portaged to Marshall lake and found the headwind from last night was nearly gone so, of course, conditions were much more favorable for the bugs and they seemed to be taking full advantage.
I wasn’t exactly being eaten alive as most seemed content to swarm around and get spit out as I inhaled them but, given the sheer numbers, even the small percentage who were desperate enough to settle for my blood made it unpleasant and I actually sprayed myself with Deet before returning for the canoe.
From conversations with Robin at canoetripping.net, I knew there was a campsite on Dog Island which was just past the point that I could see from the launch so, in hopes that the bugs would be less intense there, I decided to forgo breakfast until I reached that campsite.
What I hadn’t quite grasped from studying the maps was the enormity of the lakes on this route.
The paddle from the launch to Dog Island is nearly 3 miles (4.8km) and, while it went smoothly, it seemed to take forever to get to the campsite and I was glad to step out of the canoe as the wind was starting to pick up.
I didn’t want to wait for a fire to burn down so I made breakfast and coffee on the backpacking stove while I explored the island campsite. The wind across the point served nicely to keep the bugs at bay and I think the campsite would have been an ideal destination if I’d arrived a little earlier the night before.
The landing was good, the views were excellent, there were several nice tent pads as well as tons of firewood. (oh… and there were blueberries! Wild blueberries were growing everywhere and were just beginning to ripen.)
I enjoyed breakfast, blueberries and coffee as I watched a few small fishing boats run back and forth past the island and the wind seemed to settle down a bit as I drained the last of the coffee.
I was sorely tempted to just remain on the island for the night but, of course, it was only 11am so, with the wind dying down a little, I pushed off for the West end of the lake.
What wind remained was coming from the West and I had intended to explore every campsite that I could find as I had done on the Steel River trip. The campsite shown on my maps, however, was on the North shore and would have required me to paddle broadside to the wind in order to reach the portage.
Rob had also said that there was an old campsite on the South shore so I decided to check it out instead and worked my way into the wind using a few islands as windbreaks along the way.
I found the campsite without issue and, although it appears that it’s not been used in awhile, it had a nice view, a couple of good tent pads, some rustic furniture and even a pantry of potluck supper options if one were brave (or desperate) enough.
I slipped along the southern shore looking for the mouth of the Gripp river when I spied an old building on the bank, and then 2 or 3 more… As part of my mission was to explore a bit, I beached the canoe, grabbed the cameras and set about being nebby.
It soon became apparent that this was a mining camp of some sort as there were core samples laying about from drilling and I’d initially thought that, given the state of the buildings, they’d been abandoned for decades until I peeked into the outhouse and found that someone had left their reading material.
(Oh, wait… The Chamber was released in 1994 so I guess it could have been there for 30 years…)
I paddled on around the point and into the mouth of the Gripp river where it appeared that someone had had a clearance sale on flagging tape.
There were places where someone had flagged the shoreline every 4th bush and I had to wonder if maybe they’d read my previous trip reports and had attempted to ensure that I wouldn’t get lost on this trip
That thought was short-lived however when I found the first portage on river left beside an old trapper’s cabin.
I started off well, the trail was easily followed but the further I went, the more I was slogging through some very swampy ground following flagging tape with no real trail that I could see.
It certainly wasn’t anything like the portage I’d used to arrive at Marshall lake but I did, eventually, make my way back to the water.
It seemed wrong somehow as the portage was supposed to be 263 meters (less than 300 yards) and felt more like twice that. Besides, the trail was crap and it seemed like I’d gone South instead of West.
I checked the maps, compass and the inReach and decided that the flagging tape had led me back to Marshall lake near the mouth of the Gripp river.
I’m still unsure what all the flagging tape was about although It did lead to a large patch of berries that I’m fairly certain were Cloudberries.
Unfortunately, I wasn’t sure enough to sample them although I’ve always wanted to.
They were thick in the swampy sections though and I’m sure I could have picked a quart or two.
Back to the cabin I went and I started looking the trail over carefully. I found that the flagging tape had led me astray just a couple dozen yards (meters) into the portage.
There is a crude heart carved into a pine to the left of the trail and the flagging tape (and the most visually open area) goes left while the portage trail actually goes to the right.
(to the far right in the accompanying picture)
That corrected, I briefly explored the trapper’s cabin (much more spartan than the mining cabin had been although it was in much better shape today) and then paddled down the Gripp river
The next couple of portages went more smoothly as the sky cleared & then sprinkled rain again. The Gripp river was beautiful regardless, the fishing was excellent below every set of rapids but, with bugs eagerly awaiting me on the shore, I practiced catch & release exclusively on that day.
I saw another old cabin as I arrived on Gripp lake but I didn’t take the time to paddle over to it as it was getting late and it was in the wrong direction for getting to the campsite.
Instead, I paddled over to the site that Rob had said was now the preferred campsite on Gripp lake and found it to be as advertised: Nice, rocky point exposed to the light breeze (so minimum bugs), lots of room and, overall, a very nice site.
I set up camp, made supper and turned in thinking that I was starting to figure out the portage trails a bit better and that I might go check out that other cabin in the morning. I burned a few inches of mosquito coil in the tent, sent out the “all clear” message and called it a day.
Day 2
Due to the Easterly exposure of the campsite, the morning sun shone brightly onto the rock and my tent, warming both the camp and the bugs.
I awoke to a swarm of them outside the netting and had little choice but to open the tent, put on my boots and get on with making (and being) breakfast.
I opted not to build a fire so I could get on the water (& away from the bugs) sooner and, after heating water for oatmeal, I put coffee on while I broke down & packed up camp.
The bugs, however, in their determination to drive me nuts, managed to knock the coffee pot off of the camp stove and I, once more, started the day without the elixir of life.
(OK, I’m not actually saying that the spillage was caused by the bugs but I AM saying I’m going to blame it on them… Hey, It’s my lie, let me tell it how I like)
The wind was fairly brisk from the West that morning, so I decided to skip backtracking to the cabin and just head for the other Gripp lake campsite.
I slipped along the shoreline, as always, into the wind for a little less than 2 ½ miles (3.7km) and found the site to be really nice, situated on a steep hill but in nice shape, plenty of room for a couple of tents and had a nice view.
I think I prefer the site I used to this one, but it certainly wasn’t bad and it came with a nice bonus of blueberries.
A few hundred yards (meters) after Gripp lake turned back into Gripp river, I found the next portage on river right. Marked by orange flagging tape tied to the Alder that lined the banks, the portage was in nice shape and there was excellent fishing and a newly constructed cabin below the rapids.
After the portage, the Gripp widened briefly and then became fairly narrow with marshy areas on both sides of the river. I was soon thankful that I was paddling into the wind when I rounded a slight bend and found a cow moose gazing on the underwater plants.
I’d never seen a moose in real life and, like most people I suppose, I was instantly struck by how large they are. She didn’t seem terribly worried about me but did clear out as I approached and I felt a bit bad as I’d not only ruined her lunch but I chased her up on the bank where the bugs were, no doubt, awaiting her as eagerly as they did me.
Shortly after the moose, the lake widened dramatically but didn’t seem to get any deeper as it opened up into a sea of wild rice known as Summit lake. Summit is a bifurcating, or height of land, lake. The water from the Southern outlet flows to Lake Nipigon, then Superior and the Atlantic Ocean while the Northern outlet flows to James Bay and the Arctic Ocean.
In researching this trip report (because I do stuff like that), I was able to find only one other lake in the world (Isa Lake in Yellowstone Park, Wyoming) where the 2 drainages actually end up in different oceans.
(Wollaston Lake in Saskatchewan empties into the Arctic Ocean in 2 different places but it’s still the same ocean so, in my opinion, that doesn’t count.)
For my loop, I was headed for the Northern outlet which is the Powitik River but, as I’d been paddling into a headwind all day and was feeling pretty out-of-shape in general for this trip, I was looking for a break so I was looking for a campsite to explore.
I looked around on the southeast end but couldn’t find the one that was supposed to be there. No big deal, I thought, as the other was listed as being the better spot to try my luck for some Pickerel (Walleyes).
This time, the 1 mile (1.6km)ish open water crossing didn’t worry me much since, although the wind was fairly stiff, the vegetation seemed to break the force of the waves more than it slowed the forward motion of the boat.
Besides, I could often see the bottom and, in most places, it seemed to be only waist deep.
I found the campsite on the western shore with no problem and was pleasantly surprised that it was in nicer shape than I’d expected. The maps had warned that fishermen & duck hunters often used the sites on Summit and they can be garbaged up.
Overall, it really wasn’t a bad site and, although I didn’t manage a Walleye off of the landing, I did manage to stretch out my back laying flat on the rocks in the sun and didn’t get eaten to the bone by the bugs.
I spent about ½ an hour lounging around in the sun before pushing on toward the north end and the mouth of the Powitik River. I saw my second moose of the day as I neared the lake’s terminus and it didn’t seem any more concerned by my presence than the first had, although, like the first, it also moved into the bush to let me pass.
As I neared the outlet, there was some cribbing visible underwater that I had to assume was the remnants of an old splash dam but the surrounding terrain didn’t really lend itself to flooding so I wasn’t really sure.
The maps warned that I might need to wade in places at the start of the Powitik and, as usual, the information was spot-on.
The first few hundred yards was shallow & rocky with enough water to (mostly) float the canoe as long as I wasn’t in it so I waded along guiding the canoe around what rocks I could and dragging it over the rest.
It wasn’t long before I was paddling again and the river was shallow with wild rice in the water and large marshes to either side.
About an hour later I saw my 3rd moose of the day and this one kinda freaked me out.
She looked at me almost quizzically and took a step towards me so I stood up in the canoe, waved my arms and shouted to her in an effort to discourage her from coming aboard (it’s a solo canoe but she looked a little heavy to paddle bow anyway).
I had to assume that her behavior differed from the others because she might have had a calf laying on the bank nearby but I’m unsure.
Maybe the other calves were older / further back in the bush but she did have me digging in my pocket for a bear banger in hopes that it would also scare the crap out of a moose.
Now, many who’ve read my stories previously may recall that I tend to lose things along the way and rummaging in my pocket revealed that I still had all 3 of the bear bangers that I’d started with but the launcher was, unfortunately, not aboard.
Happily, even without launching any exploding projectiles, she eventually decided against trying her hoof as a canoeist and wandered slowly up onto the bank where she stood chest-high in the bush and watched me as I hugged the far shore and paddled past.
The remainder of the day went well as I paddled the often narrow, shallow river watching for moose and (not to be greedy but) hoping for a Woodland Caribou sighting.
The portages were relatively easy to find and follow, the rapids continued to produce fish which I, for the most part, continued to release rather than suffer the extra bug time while cleaning them.
I did, eventually keep a nice Walleye that had gotten hooked deeply, I cleaned him up on the portage before the falls, stuffed him in the nalgene bottle that I carry for fish filet transport and took him along to camp.
The portage to camp came out right beside a nice waterfall and I briefly checked for another, larger site below the falls but the large rock face seemed to draw fewer bugs and there was plenty of room for one person.
I made supper, tried a few more casts for fun, took pictures as the sun faded and retired to the tent with the now normal routine of burning a few inches of mosquito coil, sending the all clear and checking the maps for tomorrow.
Day 3
I started the day with more decisions to make. I’d planned on a much slower pace but, while the bugs owned the land, they usually weren’t bad at all out on the water.
The result of these conditions was that I was spending all day on the water paddling and, while I was trying to maintain a slow, yet steady pace, the fact is that you can cover some ground (and water) if you keep moving all day.
Not far downstream from camp, the Powitik River flows into the Kapikotongwa (Kap) River.
I was planning on being there closer to the end of day 4 than the morning of day 3 and had even contemplated taking a rest day on Faubert Lake which is upstream a few miles.
While studying the maps and planning my trip, I’d noticed a waterfall marked on the map of Faubert Lake and, as my frequent hiking partner, Cathy, can attest, I’m a sucker for waterfalls and nice vistas.
This one didn’t look inaccessible on the map… maybe a couple miles of bushwacking upstream and it WAS large enough to be marked on the map while the one I’d camped by the previous night was not.
So, despite the warnings of TLC acting as background music in my head, I made the (questionable) decision to paddle (upstream, into a headwind) to check it out.
If it worked out, it might serve as redemption for dragging Cathy along on the futile hunt for a hidden waterfall on our day hike of the Loyalhanna Gorge trail and, if not, at least I was solo… I wouldn’t have anyone threatening to kill me when we reached the car.
Honestly, the “upstream” part really didn’t seem to be a factor as the flow, in most places, was barely discernible. Even in the narrower sections where it was, the sandy bottom was close enough to push off of and the canoe could easily overcome the current.
It was a long, flatwater paddle in the hot sun and a headwind, however, and I found myself occasionally feeding bugs while taking a break on the shore.
I also found myself paddling alongside a few pairs of swans and was surprised by how quickly they can paddle (with, seemingly, very little effort).
I’d seen a lot of ducks but they were very skittish and I’d been struggling to get good pictures of them.
The swans, however, seemed content to honk their heads off and paddle away (presumably leading me away from their nests but I’m not sure why that would take both of them)
Two things that struck me about the scenery were that, near the junction of the Kap & Powitik, there seemed to be large clearings behind the trees that lined the banks.
I wasn’t sure if these were due to the efforts of Rob and, perhaps, others like him to create riparian buffers that preserve the wilderness feel or if there were just large marshy areas beyond the trees.
The second was that, as I neared Faubert, there was an old burn on river right (my left going upstream).
While it didn't seem to be nearly as recent as the burns on Cairngorm last fall, I, once again, thought it was remarkable how rapidly & completely the forest seemed to recover.
Upon reaching Faubert, I was, again, greeted by bank-to-bank fields of wild rice and also saw a float plane fly over which was the first sign of human activity (except for marking tape & the occasional portage sign) that I’d seen in days.
I paddled around the corner to the mouth of the stream I’d follow to the waterfall and, although Rob had said he thought I could paddle the whole way to the falls, I wasn’t 200 yards upstream when I encountered a very well-built and impressive beaver dam that was easily 4 feet (1.22 meters) high.
I suppose I could have scaled it but I knew that there were likely others upstream & I’d have to drag over them in both directions.
Given that the boat was fully loaded with gear and this dam was both high & steep, I decided to admit defeat, take advantage to both current and tailwind and paddle back the way I’d come.
In hindsight, I kind of wish I’d paddled into Faubert proper, just to check it out, but Rob had said there was road access to it now and I just wasn’t into it at the time.
The river, the fishing below the rapids and the thought of a tailwind had more appeal and, besides, the bugs seemed to be really enjoying the shallow water and I was getting swarmed again.
I paddled leisurely back toward the junction of the Kap & Powitik rivers, enjoying the sun and the lack of portages, removing shoes & socks and simply enjoying the day.
I paddled downstream toward an “easy class 1” rapid and a bony rapid with portages that were reportedly overgrown to the point of being no longer useful but I wasn’t too worried about them.
I knew that my boat does not handle well in the current but the maps said he’d always shot the bony rapid and I should just pick a careful line & expect to hit a few rocks.
No worries there; although I don’t intentionally abuse my canoes, I’d built it to be used and believed that it could withstand some impacts.
The “easy class 1” was barely a riffle and I did take a few minutes to look for a portage around the second rapid. Not finding one, however, I looked over my options, thought I saw a good line w/ minimal rocks, knelt down and prepared for impact.
I thought I was doing pretty well descending the rapid and was almost through the top (the really bony part) when I caught on a rock mid-hull and the stern caught in the current. I was now high-centered, sideways in the rapid and in danger of pinning. I jumped out downstream so as to keep the upstream gunnel from dipping while I exited but, as I pushed off, I heard the distinctive “crack” of one of the strips breaking.
The reduced weight, however, did allow the water to push the boat off of the underwater rock and I jumped back in as it floated free.
The remainder of the rapid included just some minor scraping and I pulled ashore below the swift water so I could move gear aside and inspect the hull.
There were no leaks, just a small spider-webbed area where, no doubt, the wood below had cracked but I felt that it would be OK unless I was unfortunate enough to hit hard again in that exact same spot.
I paddled on looking for the next campsite and soon found it on river left. It was up a steep rock face, looked like it hadn’t been used in years and did have a couple of nice tent pads but it was early, there was very little breeze to deter the bugs and I made another questionable decision when I decided to paddle on.
In hindsight, I should have unloaded and returned upstream to catch some fish for supper at the bottom of the last rapid but hindsight, as always, didn’t come until later.
In this case, “later” was about 4km (2 ½ miles) downriver when I came to the next portage.
This one goes around what the maps described as “some knarly class 2/3/4 rapids, depending on water levels”.
Now, one would think that, given that description, the portage should be pretty well-used but that did not seem to be the case.
There were places where it was hard to follow, a few places that I went into swamp up to my knees and I wound up dragging the canoe for about 2/3 of the 670 meter (133 rod) portage.
The maps indicated that there was "a real bughole” of a campsite in the patch of grass at the start of the portage so I switched up my portage routine and carried the canoe through first figuring that, if I found nothing better, I could set up camp in the bughole and finish the portage in the morning but, either way, the canoe had to go through.
That decision actually worked really well as I found enough room near the end of the portage to tuck the tent into a small grove of Cedars and I returned for the pack, skipped the fire that night, made supper on the backpacking stove and burned 3 sections of mosquito coil in the tent that night when I turned in.
Yep, as you might have guessed by that last part, it was still a real bughole but, at least it was a bughole at the right end of the portage.
Throughout the trip, I didn’t find mosquito coil to be overly effective but it helped and, after about an hour and a half of swatting anything that landed on me, I had the bugs tamed enough that I could sleep.
Day 4
The bugs weren’t any better in the morning than they were the night before as I made breakfast quickly and skipped coffee again to minimize blood loss.
I was back on the water shortly after 7am and the morning didn’t get much better.
In addition to making my own canoe, I’d made four wooden paddles of various blade shapes & wood species to try out on this trip.
I’d found that I preferred the beavertail blades over the others and, fortunately, I had two of them; one made from Sassafras and one from Catalpa. (the Catalpa is beside the plastic blade in the accompanying picture and the Sassafras is in the center)
I was worried that I’d cut the Sassafras a bit thin as it was super flexible but it was the lightest of the four so I was trying to use it sparingly in order to have it for the massive open water crossing of Ara lake at the end.
If it was going to break, I wanted to get as much use as possible at the most critical time.
My primary paddle, therefore was the Catalpa beavertail and I was really enjoying it. It moved more water than the Cherry ottertail and fit my hands better than the Aspen whitewater-bladed paddle did.
When I arrived at the second portage of the day, the maps had prepared me for a steep bank to exit the river and it wasn’t too bad throwing the packs up the hill at the portage landing.
There was also a large(ish) tree across the trail at the top of the hill... Nothing that would make it really difficult to get across but it was positioned in a way that it looked easier to pull the canoe up the bank and over the tree in one pull than to do each obstacle individually.
With the packs unloaded between the top of the bank & the tree, I grabbed the stern painter and, reminiscent of the steeper portages on the Steel River, I yanked the canoe out of the water and up the bank.
As the canoe left the water, I realized the error of not removing everything from it when the Catalpa beavertail slid the length of the canoe, glanced off the bow float tank & landed in the water right at the head of the rapid.
I didn’t really even have time to get a picture before it was descending the rapid without me.
The portage ended in a terrible bughole of a backwater and I loaded as quickly as possible and escaped again to the sun and the open water.
I paddled upstream and fished the end of the rapid for awhile then went searching downstream to see if the Catalpa paddle had, somehow, beaten me through but I could find neither a fish nor my paddle that morning.
In the end, I had to conclude that I wasn’t a very good fisherman and that the paddle was, indeed, gone.
From there it was another long, flat water paddle past some nice, mature Birch forest, more Trumpeter Swans and lots of wild rice & ducks.
Around 10:30 I saw another sign of civilization in the form of a bridge. I thought about stopping and taking a break to walk around a bit (there was a nice landing and what appeared to be a boat ramp) but the map looked like there was another at the edge of Sedgman Lake Provincial Nature Reserve so I paddled on.
Like the trip my son & I took down the Conemaugh River at home, the debris piled high on the bridge piers told that the Spring snow melt was capable of much higher water levels than I was experiencing.
What I thought was really impressive in this place was that the surrounding area was much flatter than at home and the only explanation that I could come up with was that the roadbed itself acted as a dam to channel the flood water through the narrow bridge opening.
For the record; there is only one bridge.
It is where the Ogoki road crosses the Kap river and the road forms the Western boundary of the 58 square km (22 square mile) Sedgman Lake Provincial Nature Preserve.
This area is open to canoeing, wildlife viewing and sport fishing but hunting, trapping and harvesting wild rice is forbidden (except, perhaps, First Nations Tribes with treaty rights)
According to the management statement, camping within the reserve is discouraged and there are no established campsites within its boundaries.
My maps showed otherwise and there was a campsite listed near the Eastern edge of the preserve.
I arrived there around noon and it’s a really nice site. A gently sloping rock landing, a nice fire pit and several really nice tent pads had me, once more, wishing that I’d done this loop in August or early September.
As it was, there was some relief to be had from bugs on the sunny, breezy rock landing but anything back in the shade was teeming with tiny, thirsty and relentless flying vampires.
I made a quick lunch on the landing, filtered some water and checked the weather on the inReach. It said that rain was expected between 2 & 6 and I thought briefly about staying put but, with an open tarp unlikely to keep the bugs at bay, the idea of being cooped up in the tent all afternoon was enough to convince me to paddle on.
The clouds started rolling in and the wind was picking up but it didn’t really seem to be overtly threatening rain as I paddled on looking for moose and other wildlife (...shouldn’t they be concentrated in the preserve?... Maybe that's only during hunting season...)
The maps showed another campsite in the next open lake area and, although it would require a few km of paddling away from the route, I had all day (or at least as long as the rain held off) and I decided to check it out as well.
The esker upon which this site was located made a really nice windbreak when paddling to and from the site but, with lots of open water in front of the site, paddling around the point to access the beach landing might have been dicey with any more wind.
The site itself wasn’t bad except that there was a bit more garbage here than most of the other sites. The landing was a huge, sandy beach, there was lots of room for tents and the breeze across the site provided a wonderful break from the bugs.
It’s obviously used more heavily than some of the others I’d visited but even this site didn’t look like it had seen any recent use.
By 3:30 the clouds were starting to thicken as I continued on down the Kap river and past the home of what I can only assume to be a very patriotic beaver. It still seemed like the storm might pass me to the North.
By 4:30 the thunder was starting to rumble pretty hard and I was pretty sure the storm was not going to miss me.
The maps seemed to show a campsite on the beach to my left and I paddled past looking carefully but didn’t see any evidence of it.
The maps also showed another campsite at the far end of the lake.
I was just about resigned to the thought of sprinting the length of the 3 km (1.8 mi) lake trying to beat the rain when I thought I saw an unusual rock pile on a small island.
I beached the boat to investigate, found a really nice campsite and had just enough time to get the tent set up when the storm broke in a pretty impressive downpour.
It rained hard for almost 2 hours while I secured boat and paddles, gathered firewood, filtered water, explored my island home and took some pictures (quite a few with raindrops on the lens).
It finally stopped around 7:30 and I made supper, enjoyed a cup of brandy by the fire and watched the sun set behind the camp.
I tried to wait until the very end to get the rosy hues but, in the end, the bugs won and I watched the sun fade from within the tent.
Day 5
I slept better that night than I had since I’d started and even slept in a little, reinflating the air mattress again in the morning and remaining bug-free in the tent until the call of nature forced me into the open air where I became breakfast for the hungry hordes.
Rather than spray myself with Deet, I packed quickly, once more skipped breakfast (at the rate I was eating, I had enough food to stay out a month or more) and escaped again to the sun and the open water.
At that point, I was really glad that I hadn’t tried to outrun the rain the previous evening.
What I hadn’t noticed when I was considering it was that the map scale had changed and the area represented by each map was now 4-5 times larger than it had been all trip.
I would have had no chance at all of making it.
About an hour of paddling brought me to the campsite and, as I looked around, I was glad that I’d stopped where I did.
This one was nice. It had some good tent pads, a nice firepit area and some good views from the landing but it was tucked back completely in the trees so the views weren’t as open from in camp.
As with most of the campsites, this one did not show signs of recent or heavy usage.
Unlike the others, this one had a bow hanging from a nail in one of the trees and I had to wonder how much time someone had spent carving it and how long it had hung there.
The next 2 ½ hours was more flat water paddling as the river weaved its way past marshy areas and some sparsely forested ones. There weren’t very many great places to get out and I found it a little surprising that the campsites I’d found weren’t used more heavily.
To be fair, it did seem to be the height of bug season so maybe they saw more use in the late Summer and Fall but it seemed that there were literally miles of river that could be accessed from the Ogoki road bridge and all of it was deep enough to use an outboard if one didn’t want to paddle.
One advantage of paddling, of course, was that I saw more wildlife as the next moose would not have been seen at all with any more noise than I was making. As it was, it exited the river quickly and I barely had enough time to get a picture.
Still no horns… I was starting to feel like I was hunting whitetails at home.
Around One O’clock, I left the Kap river and paddled South through a slight narrows and into Stewart Lake. As I entered, I saw a red steel roof and a well-used, pretty battered canoe on my right.
I paddled closer to investigate and found a large wooden dock, several row boats up on the bank and a new looking cabin.
As the dock was mostly out of the water & all boats were well up on shore, it appeared that no one was around (or had been in awhile) and, needing to stretch my legs a little any way, I decided to, once more, be nebby and look around.
As I approached the cabin, I noticed a “Private Property” sign but, instead of the usual “KEEP OUT” message, I was pleasantly surprised by the more congenial tone.
I’m not even sure the front door was capable of being locked (at least from the outside) but I tried it, it was unlocked and, although I did not go in, it certainly looked like it had all the comforts of home and was built for four season use.
Soon after leaving the cabin site, I arrived at the next campsite shown on the maps. There are two shown at the Northern end of the lake and this was on the Western shore.
Like all the others, this one was extremely “buggy” in the wooded areas and I had to wonder what all those bugs eat when there are no unfortunate canoe trippers making questionable life choices.
There was a nice breeze across the rocky landing though so I started some water boiling to rehydrate lunch while I donated blood in order to photograph the site.
There was a pretty good hike uphill from the landing to the campsite and the site itself was very nice. Someone had built firewood storage, there were several nice tent pads and the biggest White Birch I’d ever seen.
If I were to stay overnight, I’m not sure I’d choose to camp here instead of avail myself of the apparent hospitality of the cabin but I’ve certainly camped in worse conditions (just two days prior, in fact).
With lunch over, I debated paddling over to the site on the Eastern shore but decided that would include backtracking into a headwind and donating more blood so I decided against it and continued on Southwest across the expanse of Stewart Lake.
Besides, I reasoned, the inReach showed that I’d left camp 5 hours ago and, based on the map (and depending upon the next portage), I might have another 4-5 hours to go before reaching the point campsite that I was aiming for on Stone Lake.
I noticed that, away from the Kap river, the shorelines had begun to get more rocky and the large marshy areas were more rare. I enjoyed the change of scenery as well as the increased opportunities to go ashore and walk around to stretch my legs.
The South end of Stewart narrowed a little and there were, again, large areas of wild rice. I saw some metal on the shoreline to my left but it didn’t appear to be much (maybe a hunting blind) and the shoreline was steep and overgrown so I didn’t bother to investigate.
A couple of kilometers later the waterway narrowed even more and I started upstream toward Stone Lake. Once again, the flow was indiscernible, the river was shallow and I suspect the moose hunting might be good.
I passed an old hunting stand, scared a bunch of ducks and then came across a huge cow moose belly-deep in her lunch.
Unlike the morning moose, she posed long enough for a nice picture, then high-tailed it for the bush and, in doing so, provided a couple of nice action shots.
I also saw another Dragonfly and I wondered why I wasn’t seeing more of them. With all the mosquitoes, it seemed that Dragonflies could feast to absolute gluttony… I had to wonder if most had done exactly that and were now to fat to fly… (alone in the woods for awhile, you start thinking about all kinds of weird stuff, I guess)
I was torn away from musing about the health and welfare of insects when, a little further upstream, I came across a newer hunting blind that was easily accessed from the water so I stopped to check it out and see what the field of fire looked like.
It felt great to be out of the hot sun even if it meant more blood loss and I was glad that I checked it out.
Honestly, even if the owner doesn’t get a moose from that stand, I’d think the view from the blind would make for a very pleasant day in the woods.
Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the next portage.
I caught & released a huge Northern Pike below the riffles and unloaded on the rocky portage landing. (the fish was too much for one person to eat and I was already carrying enough food to feed an army).
Although the portage trail was easy to follow and moose, obviously, use it, I was not a fan of this portage. Besides the omnipresent bugs, the trail was very swampy in places and the Alder growing low across the trail made it difficult to see where I was putting my feet.
Besides that, the day was very hot and I was sweating enough by the end that, if bugs detect prey via thermal signatures, I was shining like a beacon and probably drawing bugs all the way from Montreal.
I found a cached boat at the end of the portage so I dumped my gear upon it, sprayed myself liberally with Deet and sat in the shade for awhile before returning for the canoe.
The rest of the way to Stone Lake was uneventful but pretty and it took me about 45 minutes to reach the headwaters of the river where I got my first look at just how big the lakes were becoming on this route.
As I entered, I noticed a fishing outpost camp to my left with lots of overturned boats in the yard. I suspected that it was a bit further away than it looked and I was staring out at miles of open water so I didn’t bother to paddle over but, instead, took advantage of the fact that the lake was almost perfectly still.
It took about an hour to paddle the 4 km (2 ½ miles) to the campsite I was aiming for.
This one was situated on a huge piece of Canadian Shield rock, had lots of room in the woods for tents, a great view of the lake, a ton of eater-sized Northern Pike in the cove adjacent to the landing and, most surprisingly, the bugs weren’t bad at all. (Note: I've since learned that the Walleye can be found off the other point; shown in the center of the following picture)
I was still really worried about the long, open-water crossing awaiting me on Ara Lake so, after supper, I messaged Rob to see if he could give me a wind forecast and to ask what the South shore was like.
He’d previously told me (in no uncertain terms) that Ara was not to be taken lightly and that, if I reached it when the wind was down, I’d best get across it ASAP.
Looking at the maps, it seemed that the shortest crossing was straight across from the cove I would portage into.
I was thinking that, if the wind was up, I’d sneak along the Northern shore to the campsite across from the Ara-Meta channel and try again the next day but, if winds were favorable, I’d get across right away and stay on the Southern shore to the channel and worry about camping options later.
Rob promptly messaged back that I should have very favorable winds (5-10 km/hr) from the NW and that he’s crossed as I’d proposed before and the South shore was fine.
With what seemed to be a solid game plan in mind, I send out the “all OK” message and turned in for the night.
Day 6
Sunrise from the point was spectacular and I lingered just a bit that morning to be certain that the fog wouldn’t build as it had last Fall on Lake Santoy.
I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast (including coffee!) and started paddling around 8am.
I paddled South along the shore and, as I neared the point where the shoreline turned West, I found 2 more cabins in fairly close proximity to one another. One seemed significantly newer than the other but both seemed to share the same landing.
I didn’t stop to investigate either but, instead, turned South and made my first open water crossing of the day.
In another questionable decision, I deliberately chose to hit the Southern shore to the West of where I thought the portage should be figuring that I wouldn’t have to paddle back & forth if I was sure I was due West of it.
If I’d been thinking at all, I would have made certain that I hit the shore to the East of the portage so as to have the sun at my back.
Instead, I found myself paddling into the sun, looking for signs of the portage against the glare off the water.
The Southern shore was lined with a thick wild rice patch and I cruised along the edge looking for some sign of the portage. This one was well marked with both styles of portage signs.
The landing itself was a muddy mess and I went to some trouble to throw the stern painter across the mud and then, in a display of gymnastics that was nearly worthy of Olympic Pewter, I climbed through some of the brush surrounding the landing in order to avoid the mud.
(sadly, there is no photographic evidence of my agility during the mud pit avoidance exercise so you’ll have to take my word for it)
Once more, with hindsight being 20/20, I could have saved myself the effort and just waded in from the deep water edge of the wild rice.
I wasn’t 100 yards into the 1.6 km (1 mile) portage when I was, once again, knee deep in the swampy trail.
The rest of the portage didn’t get any better and it was simply a brutal, hot, bug-infested mess that made me, for the first time ever, happy to see a massive lake. There were two places where I had to clear (thankfully, small) blow downs and my trip notes indicate that, if I didn’t need the canoe to cross Ara, I was tempted to just leave it and hike back to the truck.
As it was, I think I dragged the canoe through more of the portage than I carried it, I wound up wading the landing at Ara anyway (but that helped wash off the mud) and I think I sprayed myself with more Deet than I ever had in my life.
On the plus side, there were blueberries everywhere and I even found Indian Pipes which I think are one the coolest wildflowers ever.
Ara Lake, with over 12,012 acres (48.6 sq km or almost 19 sq mi) of water is a massive lake and the bay that I portaged into was nearly as large as Stewart Lake had been the day before.
Seemingly in testament to the size of this behemoth, I was greeted near the launch by a Pelican.
I’m not sure how large the ocean needs to be to support Pelican life but, already intimidated by the fact that I could scarcely see that there were trees on the far side of the lake, its presence was not helping.
I paddled along the Western shore of the bay until I reached the main lake and, as per Rob’s forecast, there was barely any wind.
Initially, I set a course to go straight across but, as I paddled further from shore, I started to get more comfortable that Ara Lake wasn’t going to suddenly explode and swamp the canoe and I modified my course to pass the Eastern end of the point before me.
It turned out to be a 2 km (1.25 mi) open water crossing and I then chose a point on the South shore that was about 1.5 km (1 mi) away and started toward it. I wasn’t terribly far into that paddle when (using the camera's zoom) I saw the first people I’d seen in a week: 2 boats full of fishermen working their way along the South shore in approximately the place that I was aiming for.
So as to not interfere with their fishing, because I was still enjoying my solitude and because the lake seemed content to remain like glass, I altered course to what would become the longest open water crossing of my life at 6km (3.75 miles).
The lake was actually calm enough that I could clearly see my wake for quite a ways behind me.
I saw a fishing camp on the North shore but, checking it with the camera (again, using the zoom lens), it didn’t appear that anyone was currently using it.
A little over an hour later, I, again, reached land and spotted a nice little esker beach where I pulled the canoe ashore to stretch my legs and filter some more water.
I rested there for awhile as I watched the small fishing boats motor past, their smiling occupants seemingly oblivious to my presence.
After about an hour of lounging on the beach, I paddled around the point and into the Ara-Meta channel where I found a much larger fishing camp and saw a couple of boats coming and going from it.
I was about ½ way through the channel between Ara and Meta lakes when I heard a fishing boat approaching from the rear. As it drew closer, it reduced power substantially and I thought “that’s nice of them to not toss me around in their wake” but didn’t turn to look.
Soon, as the boat drew nearer, the pilot shut off the engine and I heard a man’s voice say “So… do you know Rob Haslam?”
I admitted that I did.
The speaker was John Wiersema and he and his wife Cheryl were returning home from fishing on Ara. For them, it truly was returning home as they own Meta Lake Lodge and, therefore, live on Meta lake all summer.
They seemed genuinely thrilled that I’d started at Marshall and done the loop and we chatted awhile about various topics before Cheryl asked where I was staying that night.
I said the maps showed a site at the South end of the lake, she affirmed that it was a nice, grassy area and then John suggested I turn left at the end of the channel & stay at the outpost camp that they have there as it was currently empty.
He asked Cheryl if the door was open and, when the answer was negative, said that I was welcome to camp in the yard, there was good fishing off the dock, an outhouse and a firepit.
When I said that I wasn’t a fan of huge lakes and wanted to get somewhat close to the portage in case the weather was worse tomorrow, he said that I was welcome to camp out in the yard of their lodge also as it was mowed which helped to keep the bugs at a minimum.
I thanked them for all the info, told them I’d say “hi” to Rob for them and they were on their way again.
I reached Meta lake around 4pm and turned left at the end of the channel as I figured that, especially with permission, I really should check out John & Cheryl’s outpost camp.
About a half hour later, I tied up to the dock and looked around. It looked like an awesome little fishing camp with most of the comforts of home (plus a fish cleaning shed). Needing to stretch my legs any way, I walked all around the area, snooped in the windows and tried a few casts off the dock.
In the end, I decided that I was unlikely to find a better day to paddle big water than what I had so I’d paddle on and stay at the site at the South end of the lake just in case the weather turned sour.
At 8,050 acres, Meta lake is also big water although it lacks the large, open water areas that make Ara so troublesome and it has quite a few islands that make it seem smaller and would allow someone to get behind them if the wind were severe.
None of that, however, makes the paddling distance shorter and, from the dock of the outpost camp to the South inlet where the camp was marked on the map was 6.5 km (4 miles)
I looked around the grassy area South of the inlet where the campsite was marked but, to be honest, I didn’t look very hard.
As I neared the high grass, the bugs began to thicken and, as I stepped ashore, the ground seemed marshy.
I paddled along the Southern shoreline looking for something better while thinking that John & Cheryl had offered yard space; if I don’t find anything by the time I reach the point, I’d take them up on it.
I poked my nose into the Cedars a couple of places and there are some good possibilities along the shore (nice, level areas that weren’t wet or rocky) if one wanted to take the time to clear out some blowdown to make room.
As it was, I wasn’t terribly motivated to fight the bugs for any of those areas and, upon reaching the Eastern tip of the point, I dug the Aspen paddle deep and was soon tying up to the dock.
John & Cheryl seemed genuinely pleased to see me again and it was obvious that they’d told all their guests that they’d run into me on the water. It seemed that nearly everyone checked out the strip canoe that I was paddling as I hauled it and my gear onto the dock.
As I was trying to figure out where I could camp and be out of the way, John suggested that Cheryl just put me in cabin #4 as it was currently empty.
I was thus outfitted with the most luxurious accommodations I am likely to ever find in a backcountry canoe trip, complete w/ hot & cold running water, electricity 24/7 and a flush toilet.
I’d barely started to settle in when the cook came by, asked if I was hungry and offered some leftover lasagna.
Honestly, I was worried about how the guests would react to me dropping in but everyone I talked to (and they all seemed to drop by at some point) were welcoming and eager to swap stories. I sat at the picnic table sipping brandy and talking to a retired RAF pilot, a father and son from Texas and some folks from Michigan.
Cheryl stopped by just before dark and we talked a bit more when she told me that she’d met her husband while paddling the loop with Rob and 20 teen-aged school kids. She said that dragging the canoe most of the portage from Stone lake was probably standard operating procedure and that she hadn’t been paddling at all this year because she’d messed up her back.
In all, I found them all to be wonderful people and the experience reinforced the idea that, although I go to the woods to get away from everything and everyone, sometimes the people that you meet are the best part of the story.
Day 7
(I still find it odd to see a US flag in Canada but Cheryl says John, as well as many of their guests, are from the states and she likes the welcoming, international vibe of both flags… any way, on with the story...)
Not surprisingly, I slept better than I had all trip (although the island site 2 nights prior was close). I piled the sheets on the coffee table, moved gear to the porch and had just swept the cabin when Cheryl and her pup stopped by to invite me up to the lodge for coffee.
I happily took her up on that and spent too much time enjoying the coffee and listening to John & Cheryl tell stories. Many of them centered around her father who, it seems, has lived a truly remarkable life.
I finally pushed off around 8am as the wind was picking up & it was threatening rain. As I paddled toward the portage, I realized that I’d forgotten to sign the guest log… I always sign trail logs on backpacking trips but I’d never seen one on a canoe trip… maybe next time.
I was, once again, glad that I’d gotten the weather I had the previous day as I’d have been wind bound on Ara for sure.
I was also pleased that the decision to paddle on from the outpost camp had worked out as the chop that was developing as I paddled toward the portage was not something I’d have liked to endure for 6 km.
As the lake narrowed to the inlet stream, the water settled down but it started raining.
I paddled on looking for the portage sign that Cheryl had said marked the exit and found that the tree was, indeed, still standing (she’d seemed a little in doubt when she told me about it).
I still had a bit of trouble finding which direction the portage went from the landing so I scouted the shoreline back & forth, eventually finding a yellow, plastic twist tie on the ground and some flagging tape further up into the woods.
I hung the twist tie from a tree and cleared a little Alder so it was more visible from the landing, shouldered my pack & headed for the truck.
I found the portage to be as Cheryl had described it: long (2 km, 1 ¼ miles or 398 rods), swampy, buggy and miserable and I found 4 different places where I had to clear small trees that had fallen across the trail. I was almost grateful for these as they afforded an opportunity to drop the pack but, of course, the bugs seemed to be thicker as soon as I stopped moving.
By the time I reached the road, I was, once again, tempted to just leave the canoe and let MNR tote it away from the shore but, after walking to the truck (the two portage trails are not across from each other but, instead, are about 2/10ths of a mile [300 meters or so] apart), I found that I didn’t have the keys.
They were, of course, in the pack that I carry with the canoe so I had no choice but to return to the Meta landing.
On the return, I discovered the reason for the portage sign that was seemingly in the middle of the woods.
I’d wondered about it on the first carry but, as I was returning, I realized how easily I’d have followed the hollow that I was in and walked right past the trail.
Happily, someone had marked the turn-off much better than they had the split at the trapper’s cabin.
The advantage of carrying the canoe, of course, was that it could be dragged through the swampiest sections and it offered protection from the rain.
On both carries, however, I was pleased to see an old tire on the right of the trail as no one would take a tire very far into the woods and I knew that the road was close.
In all, double portaging took about 4 very wet, bug-infested hours. I think it’s Bill Mason who is often credited with saying that “portaging is like hitting your head; it feels SO good when you stop”.
I couldn’t agree more at that point.
The second time across the portage, however, I actually had the truck keys and, when I opened the door, there in the middle of the seat was the launcher for the bear (and moose?) bangers. I hopped in, fired it up and started down the road to pick up my stuff.
I hadn’t gotten far, however, when something felt horribly wrong & I had to get out to see if I had a flat tire.
I did not, so I started looking further and discovered that the upper shock mount on the driver’s side rear spring had broken which allowed the spring to bounce undampened on the wash-boarded road.
It had landed on the spare tire carrier when it fell so it wasn’t going anywhere and I wasn’t going to be able to fix it in the woods anyway so I hopped back in, loaded my stuff and drove a little more slowly on the way back to civilization.
I stopped in Aroland for fuel, turned onto 584 and, as I approached the area where I’d backtracked on the way up, I decided to stop & take one more look...
This was definitely not a questionable decision as, five minutes later I had found the missing dental prosthesis and was back on the road.
I stopped at the Rotiss-A-Fry in Geraldton for chicken and my first-ever poutine.
(it's fries w/ cheese and brown gravy… now, I suppose it’s faster to write “Poutine” than “Fries with cheese and brown gravy” but still…).
It was very tasty.
Rob wasn't home (I think he was off scouting some new canoe route) so I dropped the rain jacket off on the way past his house and then made my way back toward the border, stopping in Wawa for the night & again stopping at Voyaguer’s for coffee, a breakfast sandwich & a fritter on Tuesday morning. (yeah, they’re that good)
As I neared Sault Ste Marie, I stopped at a gas station that also sold sporting goods and, on a whim, asked if they sold bear bangers (I can’t get them in PA).
Indeed he did, so I bought some for myself and some extras in case my friend Cathy wanted to carry some on her searches with the Fowler O’Sullivan Foundation (better safe than sorry and I’d think, in a pinch, they could even bang a lion, right?)
I crossed the border into Michigan where the crossing guard didn’t think it unusual at all that I’d gone camping and fishing in Ontario (he must watch better TV stations) and I was soon passing everything but a gas station as I retraced my path home.
The closer I got to home, the heavier the traffic became and, as the houses got closer together, I started wondering if the bugs had really been all that bad…
Maybe I shouldn’t have been such a sissy or perhaps I could have worn more Deet…
I think I might prefer bugs to people but I realize, also, that those feelings may very well be situational… I’ll try to update you again after the next trip North but that will, almost certainly, not be until 2025.
Wrap-up:
Hindsight being 20/20, I’ll have to try to remember to be more careful when getting maps off of a self-proclaimed masochist. Although I think this trip would have been far more enjoyable without the bugs (I think I mentioned that the bugs were pretty bad), this really was an awesome trip but, in many ways, I think it was tougher than the Steel River had been (especially the last two portages).
I really wish I’d have done it in early September when the days were cooler and the blackflies were done.
Comparing this to the Steel River, I found the scenery more diverse on the Steel but the fishing superior on this trip. I had a lot more luck seeing wildlife on this trip and, given the state of the portage trails, the route seems to see only a fraction of the traffic that the Steel does.
There was a lot more flat water paddling on this route and camping possibilities in many areas are limited due to the huge, marshy areas on either side of the rivers.
I would not hesitate to do either of them again but, honestly, the most likely to get a “do over” is this one, simply because the fishing was so good and I really didn’t feel like I took the time to enjoy all that this one had to offer.
I’m still not at all a fan of huge lakes and, if I return, I’ll make sure I have the Raven done or bring something with a little more freeboard (the Freedom solo has about 10 inches loaded as it was) so the large lake crossings are a little less sketchy. I certainly won’t count on catching Ara in the same mood as this trip but wouldn’t even attempt that big bugger on a day with chop.
Speaking of “loaded as it was”… I’ve got to stop taking so much food.
I rarely eat lunch in my daily life and, when in the woods, it seems that I’m far more likely to skip meals so why am I taking options and enough for an extra week? In this case, because I completed the loop in 7 days instead of 12, I brought back far more food than I ate.
I’m not sure what’s next… maybe a train ride to the far side of Wabakimi or bushwhacking a trail through crown land as Rob suggested over the beers (I’m pretty frugal so crown land camping has a lot of appeal). Maybe something further West in Saskatchewan or try a route lost to history.
Whatever it is, I’ll post it here. Probably with entirely too many pictures but, hey, what can ya do? I’ll probably get lost at least once and lose something too… I might even find it again.
Until then, get out when you can and Godspeed to all.